Temperature
From UroWiki
Contents |
Temperature Gradient
What is it and why is it so important?
A gradient is more then just temperatures. It's not good enough to just have numbers that look correct - hitting a few key temperatures does not mean everything is just peachy. A gradient is much more complicated. Because uromastyx, in common with other lizards, are ectothermic (cold-blooded), they need to be able to thermoregulate by moving to various other areas of their enclosure which have different temperatures.
Photoperiod during brumation
Brumation is the time during the winter when an uromastyx slows down and generally sleeps longer, somewhat similar to hibernation in other animals (although it is not hibernation). During this time, the photoperiod may be reduced by some hours to compensate. Please note that some breeders may adjust their photoperiod differently to encourage mating behaviour.
Basking spot
The basking spot should be a flat space (rock, slate) larger then the uromastyx, onto which it can place its whole body and tail, and should be 12-18 inches away from the UVB bulb (depending on which bulb you have, as some have lesser or greater requirements which differ by bulb type and brand). Basking temperatures should be measured using an IR (infra-red) temperature gun. This is an important tool for any reptile owner to have, as accurate basking surface temperature readings are important to your lizard's health.
The basking bulb is also connected to enclosure size, because it's impossible have your lizard 12 inches away from the bulb if the tank is only 12 inches high. Thus, an enclosure with a minimum height of 18-24" (40-60cm) is recommended.
Heat range: The basking area should reach temperatures of at least 50-60'C (120-130'F). However, the surface temperature of the basking areas should not exceed 140'F (60'C), as measured with the IR temp gun (not a probe digital or analogue thermometer). The best way to control these is by use of a thermostat.
Ambient temperatures
Ambient temperatures refers to the air temperatures in the enclosure, between the basking spot and the cool end of the tank. The lizard should have ample space to roam, and should be able to cross between different temperature zones in the thermal gradient by doing so. Ambient temperatures should be measured using an accurate digital thermometer. Analogue thermometers are known to be inaccurate by as much as 20%.
Heat range: The hot end of the tank should have an ambient temperature of around 35'C (90-100'F), while the cool end should be around 30'C (85'F).
The cool end
The cool end is an escape for the lizard when it needs a cool down. This needs to be more then just a spot; it needs to be the entire end of the enclosure. the cool end should measure 80-85'F (27-30'C) and for adults should be at least twice the length of the lizard (tail tip to nose tip).more cool end space would certainly be a good idea.
Hatchlings and babies should have no less than 12-14" (40-60cm) of cool space. All this space should be in 80-85'F (27-30'C) not just on the far end. More space in the cool end would also be recommended.
Heat range: The cool end should achieve temperatures of around 27'C (80'F).
Dusk and dawn simulation
Many breeders recommend using lower-wattage lamps to simulate 'dawn' and 'dusk' in the enclosure, with the aid of an electronic timer. A typical dusk and dawn simulation might look like this (simplified as to not include any additional bulbs or basking spots your enclosure may also have):
| Dawn | Daytime heat | Midday heat | Afternoon heat | Dusk | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Low-watt bulb | 7am - 8.30am | off | 12pm - 1pm | off | 4pm - 5pm |
| Main bulb | off | 8.30am | until | 4pm | off |
Please bear in mind that this is a simplified setup based on a 10-hour winter photoperiod. The general rule is to allow a four hour difference between summer and winter: therefore, a 14 hour summer day would mean a 10 hour winter day, a 12 hour summer day would mean an 8 hour winter day, and so on, to allow for a natural 'feel' to the seasons. You should also try to shorten and lengthen the days a bit at a time over a couple of months, rather than just adding or removing four hours all at once.
Summary
As you can see, establishing a sufficiently-balanced thermal gradient involves a lot more then just reaching a few key temperatures. The lizard needs to be able to get completely away from the temperatures at either end of the enclosure, if it wants to. Keepers who keep their lizard in a 10 or 20 gallon tank will be unable to provide an adequate thermal gradient, which is one of the primary reasons that enclosures this small should never be used for an uromastyx. These lizards need to be able to choose an area they can be comfortable in, whether it's a toasty-hot 60'C (130'F) basking spot or to run around in a 27'C (80'F) cool end.
