Enclosure size

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Size of enclosures

A Malinese uromastyx being temporarily held in a 20-gallon tank; you can clearly see how small it is for the poor lizard, who barely has room to turn around
The size of your enclosure depends on the size of species of uromastyx you are planning to obtain, and there are very few 'hard and fast' rules; however, there are general guidelines you can follow.
  • When it comes to uromastyx enclosures, the bigger the better!
  • Uros are free-roaming reptiles and often have acres of land in which to run. Anything we replicate in captivity will pale in comparison. The best we can hope for is to provide a safe, comfortable environment that will provide for all the necessary needs of this heat-loving lizard for many years to come!
  • Individual lizards can be housed in smaller enclosures than lizards living with others.
  • Be sure to provide the correct temperature gradient. The 'hot' side and 'cool' side must be at appropriate temperature for the species being housed.

Bare minimum

A photo found online of an uromastyx in an enclosure clearly better suited to geckos; note the lack of thermal gradient, no proper thermometer, not enough horizontal space, and any number of other problems
EDITORS: Please see the Talk page for this article.

A "rule of thumb" with uromastyx: minimum cage length should be four times the length of the body (tip of nose to tip of tail), and the cage width should be twice the length of the body, as well as twice the height. This is the absolute minimum amount of space and has some success in acquiring the right temperatures; however, this is not a recommended size, as the necessary enclosure size will vary depending on the size of the animal, but will be acceptable for uromastyx under 12" (30cm). Hatchlings, babies and juveniles still need the same basking and ambient gradients as adults, however, and should be provided with nothing smaller than 4x2x2 feet regardless of their physical size.

A 40 gallon breeder (36"L x 18"w x 16-18"H) is often recommended for individuals, this is not acceptable for any Uromastyx. The minimum size for an uromastyx 12" (30cm) and under is 4x2x2 feet (48x24x24" or 122x60x60cm) will provide an adequate temperature gradient and room to run. The height works well with mercury vapor bulbs as well as fluorescent bulbs for providing UVB. Uromastyx will climb if given the opportunity; they are very active lizards when their temperatures are correct.

Please note that this size is not good for an Egyptian uromastyx once it passes the 20 month mark; a 60cm (24") Egyptian will need a 2.45m x 1.22m (8x4x4 feet) enclosure as the bare minimum, and a 90cm (36") specimen will certainly need an even larger enclosure still.

Best size

Bigger is always better! If you can provide a larger enclosure, that will be wonderful; everything discussed on this page references the absolute bare minimum sizes you should consider for your lizard. Trying to save money by building or buying an enclosure to the absolute minimum will simply cause problems for your lizard in the long run. A properly-sized enclosure will give you lizard more room to act as it would naturally, and give you more room to create unique landscapes as you provide a home. Remember the temperature gradient, which must be properly monitored and maintained even in these nice big enclosures, which tend to have problems with drafts.

Misconceptions

Many new owners are told that since their uromastyx is just a baby, it will be fine in a small-sized enclosure until it grows up. This is wrong; there is no better way to damage a young uromastyx then to start it off with improper husbandry, an imbalanced temperature gradient or lack of adequate space in various heat zones, and not enough room to move around in (not to mention the stresses of acclimatisation when moved into a new enclosure). This situation is inappropriate since it does not consider growth of the lizard. It is always better to provide a larger cage for the animal to grow into, given that extra hides need to be provided for security.